| Saleen Supercharger Series VI Installed on Mustang Gt 2006 |
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| It Begins... First off, You can keep the hood on without any issues.. I'm not even sure why they recommend taking it off, so save youself that hassle. As for tools, most of the tools listed are needed, and you will also see later in the manual that a coolant system pressure test pump is needed.. I recommend making friends with a local shop to borrow one... It wasn't needed for filling the coolant up for the engine, but it was very useful when it came time to push coolant into the new heat exchanger system.. I I encourage not skimping on the hoseclamp pliers, as regular pliers just make this job a huge pain.. lots of hoseclamps your dealing with. The task looks a bit daunting at first, but as a complete novice with my friend Pete, also a novice, the whole job was completed in 9 hours total. 4 hours to tear everything apart, and about 5 hours to finish up the install... not too bad. |
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| Fuel rails come off with a little firm upward pressure after you disconnect the connectors and remove the studs. |
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| You really feel like you've accomplished something when the intake is pulled off.. make sure to cover the heads with tape.. I also then did a little wiping off around the openings, as a lot of dirt and crud can be in the area.. A slightly damp cloth makes easy work of this job. |
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| You need these little guys.. not too hard to pull em out.. Just don't rip them or hurt them with tools. .. and no, that isn't my VolksWagon.. |
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| Pretty straight-forward here, removed the coolant crossover.. but make sure to tape over the open coolant holes. |
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| For what ever reason, I had a difficult time locating the area indicated in step 49 and 50.. so for those in my shoes, it is pictured here.. that ratcheting 13mm box wrench comes in handy back in these tight quarters. Also, the hoses come off the coolant ends very difficultly.. so be prepared for a little challange back in this area. The bracket you are removing pulls off the coolant tubes that are sitting over the engine valley.. it does leak quite a bit of fluid in this step, so find yoursef a good plug before-hand. I ended up using a wire nut (it has a good taper that allows it to fit into the nipple that will be gushing fluid for the next few minutes.. I skipped ahead and stuck the new coolant tubes in right away, just to keep the mess under control. |
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| The two hose clamps here will become a bit of an issue when you drop the Supercharger on shortly.. Make sure to keep the clamps facing more outward than you see in the picture.. as this will hold up the front end of the supercharger, and force you to pull it off at least once to make it fit.. so save yourself the hassle and pre-position the clamps at about a 7:00 angle. Also, my goof-up was that I had a little too much hose pushed down onto the coolant tube, which makes the fit of the new coolant crossover very challanging.. Make sure only to overlap the coolant tube by an inch or so.. any more, and you don't leave yourself enough slack for later.. I had the supercharger way to far installed before I found this out, and so my top connection is a little short. |
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| Pretty basic stuff here.. take the old ring gaskets and put them in the supercharger... ah yes.. the supercharger.. |
| Our friend the Heat Exchanger.. |
| This step didn't make any sense to me at first... but you are taking out the stop bolt in order to give yourself room to work when tightening down the supercharger to the heads later on.. as there is a bolt hole directly underneath the stop bolt that is one of the 10 head bolts, and if you don't remove this little guy, you can't put in the bolt later. As a little tip for those that haven't searched all the forums, this stop bolt can be put in further after re-installing it later, the additional travel that it allows the vacuum plunger gives you a little more top-end vacuum, and therefore more boost at high rpms... hmmmm Additionally, loosening up the two allen bolts on the boost plunger and pushing the plunger all the way down will allow for an earlier boost engagement. |
| That big black device looks so good sitting on there.. If you haven't noticed yet, that thing is heavy.. Make sure to have a friend help,and even a third wouldn't be out of the question.. It gets dropped in with the front angled down, otherwise it won't get past the firewall The extra man-power really makes this step a little easier. Here I am attempting to tighten down the darn back bolt.. it's a tight fit.. so glad I removed the stop bolt a few minutes ago.. Don't tell anyone, but I couldn't find an inch-pound torque wrench, so I ended up using a ft-lb one.. I set everything to 8 ft-lbs instead of 91 inch lbs.. |
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| Almost done.. now's a good time to throw in your larger injectors.. I went with some 03 Cobra take-offs.. 39#.. with the stock pully you don't have to upgrade, but we all know that it's only a matter of time untill we throw on a 3.8" or 3.6" pully.. |
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| Nay-sayers will tell you that a JLT intake won't fit, But I disagree... Okay, you need to do a little work with a heat gun.. |
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| There are about 50 forums about which vacuum routing is correct, but This is what I've been told by many including JDM, to be correct.... Place a tee fitting on the vacuum hose that comes from the boost actuator.The short length goes to the nipple sticking out of the supercharger, and the long hose runs into the fuel sensor. The brake booster line runs only to the large tube nipple on the back driver side there.. No other tees should be there.. and nothing runs off of the brake booster line. And according ,even to Saleen, the instructions they gave us are incorrect... |
| Firing up your beast is a momentous occasion.. will it blow up...? will it even start..? The answer to everything hopefully will be in a beautiful purr.. and a very large smile on your face. It is a bit like driving a rocket-ship.. smooth, quiet, and crazy fast! If you run into questions, JDM engineering seems to be some of the best people around, so I would have to say try them out. I ended up getting a 90mm MAF from a lightning truck, and did a little splicing into the original MAF harness to make the fit work. JDM sells a direct plug-n-play harness, but for frugal people, like myself, I justt hacked into the wires supplied. Here is the wiring match-up for the conversion between the new 90mm MAF and our stock MAF: 90MM colors --> Factory colors Red ----> Purple w/yel stripe Black -----> Black w/ white stripe Tan ----> Peach w/ lt blue stripe Blue -----> blue w/stripe The other two pins in the new 90mm MAF should be empty, but if they are not, then just ignore them.. that is being handled by the sensor in the supercharger that you previously spliced into the factory harness.. Good luck to all, and happy driving! Matt Miller If you have any questions, I might even respond if you drop me a line at : |
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